本文摘要:A tour bus is depositing 50 or so passengers on the pavement next to the grands magasins — Paris’s fabled department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. 一辆旅游大巴停车在巴黎传奇的百货商场——老佛爷百货公司(Galeries Lafayette)和巴黎春天(Printemps)旁边,下来了约50名乘客。


A tour bus is depositing 50 or so passengers on the pavement next to the grands magasins — Paris’s fabled department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. 一辆旅游大巴停车在巴黎传奇的百货商场——老佛爷百货公司(Galeries Lafayette)和巴黎春天(Printemps)旁边,下来了约50名乘客。As they stream into the stores, any brand would love to know who they are and what makes them notice one product over another.当他们鱼贯步入商场,所有品牌商家都会急迫地想告诉,他们是什么人?他们为什么留意某款商品而不是其他?A new batch of French entrepreneurs is hoping to make that dream a reality for luxury houses.一些法国企业家期望可以为奢侈品商家构建这一梦想。

Tech start-ups and luxury retail consultants say top brands across the luxury sector are quietly pushing to bring the advantages of the web into their retail stores. 科技创业企业和奢侈品零售顾问称之为,在奢侈品行业,各大顶级品牌于是以悄悄将互联网的优点应用于到零售店中。Parisian grands magasins and flagship stores on the Champs-élysées have been testing smartphone frequency detectors and connected merchandising displays to experiment with collecting data from shoppers as soon as they approach their retail store — much like online retailers have for years used cookies planted in web browsers.巴黎的百货商场,还有香榭丽舍大道上的各家分店,仍然在试验智能手机频率检测装置以及联系式商品展出技术,从顾客走进商店时开始,在他们身上搜集信息——就像在线零售商多年来用于植入浏览器的Cookie(小型文本文件)。Such customer intelligence could be the key to understanding why a particular shopper gets back on the bus with a parcel from Gucci rather than Louis Vuitton, or vice versa,这类顾客信息很关键,有助解读某个顾客返大巴时为什么拿着古驰(Gucci)包装袋,而不是路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的袋子,或者忽略。

and gives brands an edge in a fiercely competitive luxury sector.掌控了这类信息,品牌商家能在竞争白热化的奢侈品行业占有一个优势。A lot of brands want to break down the barriers between their digital and physical presence, says Clémence Dehaene, co-founder of Retail Digital 2.0, a start-up that integrates motion sensors, screens, and other high-tech elements in luxury retail displays.许多品牌都想要超越数字业务与实体业务之间的壁垒,Retail Digital 2.0牵头创始人克莱门丝.德阿纳(Clémence Dehaene)回应,这家创业企业将动作传感器、屏幕及其他高科技元素带入到奢侈品零售展出中。The start-up’s interactive retail stands — which have been used for fragrances by Dior and Armani — use motion-activated screens to tell customers about the products they pick up. 该公司的交互式零售柜台(interactive retail stand)使用动作感应器屏幕,向顾客讲解他们获得的商品,动作传感器再行将顾客与机器交互产生的信息反馈给商家。

Motion sensors feed data about the customers’ interaction back to the brand.迪奥(Dior)和阿玛尼(Armani)早已使用了他们的柜台来展出香水。Ms Dehaene says metrics like these could revolutionise the craft of merchandising, allowing retailers to modify ineffective displays without waiting to register a drop in sales.德阿纳回应这些度量技术也许不会彻底改变商品陈列技巧,零售商家不用等到销售下降,就需要对没效果的陈列展开改良。

If a brand manages to mix the efficiency of digital with the emotional aspect of a physical store then they have a real card to play, she says.她说道:如果一个品牌设法将数字化的效率与实体店铺的感性一面融合一起,那他们手上就有了一张好牌。Another start-up, Retency, provides retailers with antennas that detect the unique frequencies of individual smartphones. 另一家创业型企业Retency向零售商供应能检测智能手机独有频率的天线。The firm can use these antennas to track a customer’s movements through a retail store and even to identify them on future visits as soon as they walk through the door.企业可以用这些天线来跟踪顾客在零售店中的行动轨迹,甚至在他们下一次走出大门时辨识他们。

One French leader in luxury leather goods recently used the technology to track all the people who passed their window display at one of Paris’s department stores. 法国某高档皮具品牌最近就在巴黎一家百货商场的门店使用了该技术,对所有从他们的橱窗前经过的人展开跟踪。The brand did not want to be named as it could be perceived by some shoppers as intruding on their privacy.该品牌想透漏自己的名称,因为部分消费者可能会指出这侵害了他们的隐私。The smartphone frequency detectors enabled the brand to estimate the proportion of people who entered the department store after seeing the display, as well as how many ended up making a purchase from their brand’s point-of-sale.利用手机频率检测器,该品牌可以估计看见他们的橱窗陈列后有几成顾客入了店,以及有多少人最后在这一销售网点买了东西。

Luxury brands have a lot of information about their clients — both through cookies gathered during online shopping and information collected at the register — Retency牵头创始人伊莎贝尔.博尔德里(sabelle Bordry)回应:(通过搜集顾客在线购物时产生的Cookie,以及他们的登记信息)奢华品牌能掌控客户的大量信息。but don’t make the connection [between a shopper and their customer profile] until checkout, says Isabelle Bordry, co-founder of Retency. 但在他们结账前,不要在购物者和客户档案之间建立联系。It’s essential for physical retailers to have access to the same information as they would online.对于实体零售商来说,像在网络上一样取得顾客信息是十分最重要的。

Other companies can track visitors anonymously using the unique fingerprint emitted by smartphones, but Ms Bordry’s retail ambitions go much further.其他公司可以用智能手机升空的独有指纹对参观者展开电子邮件追踪,但博尔德里的目标相比之下好比于此。Retency claims it can identify the smartphones of shoppers who make a purchase by cross-referencing sales records with the data from the smartphone frequency antennas.Retency声称,凭借从智能手机频率天线取得的数据,依据交叉参考(cross-referencing)销售记录,其可辨识出售了某件东西的顾客的手机。But French regulations require authorisation from customers for brands to use this de-anonymised data. 但根据法国监管规定,品牌商家要取得消费者许可才能用于这些去电子邮件数据。

Ms Bordry says Retency is working with stores to get this permission included in the agreements for store loyalty programmes. 博尔德里回应,Retency于是以与一些百货商店合作,以取得这些商店的忠心顾客计划涉及协议中包括的此类许可。For customers with a loyalty card, brands could know about shoppers’ presence as soon as their smartphone is detected in any of the brand’s stores.对于持有人会员卡的顾客,一旦他们的手机在一个品牌旗下任何门店被检测到,这个品牌就能马上获知顾客碰见了他们的店。The technology gives brands feedback on their retail efforts, and helps them fine-tune promotions in real-time.该技术能把营销措施的效果对系统给商家,并协助他们及时调整广告宣传活动。

Ms Bordry says large screens in stores could soon be programmed to match shoppers’ known preferences. 博尔德里回应店铺里的大屏幕可以被很快编程,以合乎购物者的未知偏爱。The screens could even adapt to the interests of first-time visitors to a store without identifying them, based on the time they spend in different departments or looking at a particular product (as tracked by Retency’s antennas). 根据消费者在有所不同区域花费的时间,或网页某样商品的时间(利用Retency天线跟踪),屏幕甚至可以在消费者首度进店时就顺应他们的兴趣,而需要辨识他们。

The technology will be in stores by December, she says.博尔德里回应该技术将于12月份投中用店铺中。While such tools could improve the retail experience for customers as well as brands, the reluctance of Retency’s luxury clients to be identified is telling, 虽然此类工具可以提高顾客和品牌的零售体验,但可以深感Retency的奢侈品客户不愿被辨识出来。given that the sector depends on discretion. 在这个行业关键要看客户心意。

Clients may be uncomfortable about such aggressive use of their personal data.客户有可能对个人信息遭过度用于深感不难受。I don’t mind when a salesperson contacts me personally from the stores where I’m a client, but that’s because I gave them my information, says Adrienne Joseph, a customer at the LVMH-owned department store Le Bon Marché.LVMH旗下百货公司好商欠佳(Le Bon Marché)的顾客阿德里安娜.约瑟夫(Adrienne Joseph)回应:在商店里,作为顾客,我不介意销售人员与我必要认识,但这是因为是我自己给了他们我的信息。But if a retailer were collecting data about her behaviour without her knowing it? I would really not like that, she says.假如商家在她不告诉的情况下搜集有关她出售不道德的信息呢?她说道:说真的我不讨厌那样。

While she has accepted that online retailers may collect a lot of information about her, she says she would miss the feeling of anonymity she has when she goes into a department store.虽然她否认在线零售商可能会搜集她的大量信息,但她回应,她不会缅怀逛商场时没有人了解她的感觉。The respect of privacy is a key aspect of the luxury business, says George-Edouard Dias,欧莱雅(L’Oréal)前高管乔治-爱德华.迪亚斯(George-Edouard Dias)回应:认同隐私是奢侈品行业的关键要素。a former L’Oréal executive whose start-up, QuantStreams, works with luxury brands on managing data and customer relationships. 他的创业型企业QuantStreams致力于与奢华品牌合作管理数据和客户关系。

If customers receive too many messages from a store, or the messages become too precisely targeted, they may feel like a brand has been spying on them, he says.他说道如果顾客接到商家发送到的过于多信息,或者这些信息针对性过分精确,他们可能会实在该品牌仍然在监控他们。Brands will also need to be careful not to misinterpret the information provided by new technologies.各品牌还需注意不要误解通过新技术搜集的信息。Smartphone frequency detectors and connected displays could identify that one point in the store is a hotspot where traffic tends to halt. 智能手机频率检测器和联系式商品展出可以辨识店中某个地点是人流观赏的热点。

That could be because the clients like the display, or because they are lost and confused, says Mr Dias. 迪亚斯回应:这有可能是因为顾客讨厌那里展出的某件商品,也有可能是他们迷路了或深感疑惑。There is a lot of room for error in the interpretation.在理解上有相当大的误解空间。Brands should also beware of misusing information on previous spending to divide customers into the rich and the poor, said Paul Duffour, a luxury retail consultant with the MAD Network. MAD Network的奢侈品零售顾问保罗.迪富尔(Paul Duffour)回应,各品牌也不应留意不要凭着消费记录,错误地将顾客区分为富人和穷人。The luxury business has historically understood that a small customer will grow into a big one.奢侈品行业一向告诉,一个小顾客可以茁壮为一个大客户。



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